Hare

Brown hares used to be thought of as natives, but they were probably brought here two millennia ago . . .

image A century ago hares were so common that they could even be found within the City of London. Overall there were an estimated four million, distributed comparatively evenly across the country. Since then, however, they have gone into a long-term decline and today numbers stand at barely 20% of their former numbers.
No one is really sure of the reasons for this, largely because until recently no one bothered to count them accurately. The decline is thought to have begun with the Ground Game Act (1880), which allowed tenant farmers to control them as pests along with rabbits, but it has continued ever since. True, there was a recovery during the ‘60s, but this was probably due to the lack of competition following myxomatosis. Once the rabbit population began to recover the hare’s downward trend resumed and today the breeding population is thought to stand at about 800,000.
Once conservationists noticed the full extent of decline, they became alarmed. As a result, the animals were quickly given high priority on the Government’s Biodiversity Action Plan which aims to help species under threat. Unfortunately, there is a surprising lack of information about the species which even extends to their origins. Until recently they were regarded as true natives – unlike the introduced rabbit – but research has now revealed a 10,000-year gap in the fossil record. Now experts believe the animal was reintroduced after the last ice age by either the Phoenicians or, more likely, the Romans.
One might have thought that, living out in the open, it would be easy to study the creatures, but in fact they are difficult to monitor and scientists heavily on Britain’s sportsmen and population trends over the decades are extrapolated from game books. Until recently these pointed to a slow but steady decline, but the preliminary evidence from Bristol University’s latest research suggests numbers may finally be stabilising or even increasing slightly. The most recent comprehensive survey by the Joint Nature Conservancy Council found 60% of the population in arable areas, while pastoral land held 24%, marginal regions just 11% and the uplands held just 5%. Within this there was even more concentration: a fifth of the total population lives in just three counties (Norfolk, Suffolk and Cambridgeshire), which between them constitute only 5.1% of the Britain’s land area.
The reasons for all this are still barely understood, but changes in agriculture are the most important factor. In contrast to disappearing farmland birds which are faring best in the west, hare numbers are highest in East Anglia. It seems they benefit from precisely those practices which are usually condemned by environmentalists. True, autumn ploughing might deprive songbirds of fallen grain, but winter wheat is ideal for hares which feast on the tender young shoots during the hardest months of the year. Later, however, they move out of the grain fields and into neighbouring pasture or cover crops to give birth to the first of their two or three litters of young. Set-aside can provide this, but pasture – ideally cattle-grazed – is even better. This is because cattle browse inefficiently by wrapping their tongues around clumps of grass, leaving plenty of cover in which the hares can lie up.
This is not the whole story, however: increased predation is probably also important and explains why they reach their highest densities on the shooting estates of Norfolk. These offer the ideal mixed habitats with both cereal and cover crops, backed up with tight vermin control.

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Wild Food

Our ancestors relied on wild food from the fields and woods, great great grandfathers were transported for helping themselves, while Mabey, Mears and Fearnley-Whittingstall have introduced a new generation to its charms. So what free delicacies are available now?

Alexanders
Birch Sap Wine
Chanterelles
Chestnut
Cockles
Crab Apple
Elderberries
Hairy Bittercress
Hogweed
Hops (March 2010)
Morel
Parasol
Pennywort
Ramsoms (May 2010)
Red-legged partridge
Seaweed (August 2010)
Signal Crayfish
Silver Birch
Sloe
St Georges (April 2010)
Stinging Nettles
Wild strawberries

Wildlife Profile

Britain is blessed with a rich and varied fauna - what seasonal highlights are visible now?

Badger
Barn Owl
Bats
Brown Hare
Butterflies
Collared dove
Fieldfares
Frog
Garden Warbler
Great spotted woodpecker
Hare
Hedgehogs
Jay
Kingfisher
Midges (August 2010)
Mistle Thrush
Mistle Thrush
Moths (July 2010)
Nightjar
Nuthatch (June 2010)
Partridge
Red Kite
Redstart
Roe Deer
Spiders
Tawny Owl
The Goshawk
Woodpigeon

Recipes

Just as we Britons have lost any mushroom lore we might once have possessed, so most of us are at a loss when we finally venture into the kitchen with our haul. In reality, however, mushrooms are one of the easiest things to work with. They have such fantastic flavours, the general rule is to not to mask these with complicated recipes. Most should be cooked, particularly the first time, because they can be indigestible, but otherwise, simple is usually best . . .

Baked eggs and rocket with chilli and yoghurt (June 2010)
Blewit Pate
Chanterelle and Feta Quiche
Chanterelles a la forestiere
Chicken and Mushroom Pie
Chicken-of-the-Woods Satay
Elderflower Cordial
Grilled Cepes
Jew's Ear on Pasta
Morel Fondue
Morel Stroganoff (March 2010)
Mushroom Parcels
Parasol Tempura
Pearl Barley and Wild Mushroom Risotto
Porcini, kale and pasta
Saffron Milk Caps with Beans
Shaggy Ink Cap Soup
Smoked Chilli Oil
Spiced Stuffed Mushrooms
Spring Terrine
St Georges Vol-au-Vents
Thai Mushroom Soup
Venison and Blewit Casserole
Wild Mushroom and Nut Pate
Wild mushroom soup