

Older readers may remember the brief fondue craze that swept the nation. I can’t pin it to a precise year, but for me it is indelibly tied to an era when Habitat and stripped pine ruled (ie the late ‘60s). Anyway, I was hit by a wave of nostalgia last year on a skiing holiday in the French Alps when we saw morel fondue on the menu and simply had to try it. We were not disappointed . . .

25g Dried morels (better still, 100g fresh)
150ml Dry white wine
I tbspn Cornflour
500g Grated cheese (ideally a 50/50 mix of Gruyere and Emmental)
‘Dunking’ material: bread (cubed), tomatoes, button mushrooms, cucumber, celery etc.
Soak the mushrooms in the wine for at least a couple of hours, then chop coarsely, and return to the liquid. Heat the wine and mushrooms slowly on the stove and meanwhile mix the grated cheese with the cornflour. When the wine begins to bubble, slowly stir in handfuls of the cheese/flour mix. When this has emulsified, transfer to the fondue set that has lain unused and dust-covered in a cupboard for the past 30 years. Eat by dipping in cubes of bread, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms or anything else that you think goes with gooey cheese.
Tips:
1) The mix thickens as the meal progresses – so don’t worry if it seems a little watery at the start.
2) Impose severe forfeits for careless bread-loss. Depending on company, nudity, slammers or karaoke help keep the cheese free of detritus.
3) For background reading, try Asterix in Switzerland, while Abba is an appropriate backing track (the nationality may not be Alpine, but it conjours up visions of pine cladding and polo neck jumpers).
Please click here if you would like to join our Newsletter mailing list
Read the latest mushroom-hunting news – what is (and isn’t) up, what it looks like and where to find it . . . plus, of course, cooking and preserving tips. Better still, get regular updates in the comfort of your own home by taking up our free subscription - simply drop us a line via the 'Content' page or e-mail danielr.butler@btopenworld.com . . .
Mushroom Newsletter (23 January 2010)Our ancestors relied on wild food from the fields and woods, great great grandfathers were transported for helping themselves, while Mabey, Mears and Fearnley-Whittingstall have introduced a new generation to its charms. So what free delicacies are available now?
AlexandersBritain is blessed with a rich and varied fauna - what seasonal highlights are visible now?
BadgerJust as we Britons have lost any mushroom lore we might once have possessed, so most of us are at a loss when we finally venture into the kitchen with our haul. In reality, however, mushrooms are one of the easiest things to work with. They have such fantastic flavours, the general rule is to not to mask these with complicated recipes. Most should be cooked, particularly the first time, because they can be indigestible, but otherwise, simple is usually best . . .
Chanterelle and Feta QuicheMushroom Newsletter (23 January 2010)
The recent snow may not have been conducive to mushroom hunting, but spring is on its way and the arrival of my new mushroom cards and an invitation to hunt morels in Turkey have lifted my spirits . . .
Brown Hare
‘Mad as a March hare’ is a familiar expression, but one which means little to many young people. Few people fortunate enough to have seen a group of these surprisingly large creatures bouncing like boxing kangaroos across the frost-dusted grass will forget it however . . .
Hops (March 2010)
These are one of the earliest green shoots to emerge each year, snaking up through the hedgerows, curling around sturdier, now dormant, shrubs at a phenomenol pace . . .
Morel Stroganoff (March 2010)
Morels are the first seriously delicious mushrooms of the year to emerge. This delicious recipe merges their superb flavour (surely these must be in anyone’s top half-dozen wild mushrooms?) with yoghurt to create a light, creamy, dish with a hint of sour . . .
German mushroom knife
These specially imported knives have a hawk's bill stainless steel blade, lanyard hook and measuring scale. The blade's serrated back and inbuilt natural bristle brush allow collectors to clean their finds in the field.