Morel Fondue

Older readers may remember the brief fondue craze that swept the nation. I can’t pin it to a precise year, but for me it is indelibly tied to an era when Habitat and stripped pine ruled (ie the late ‘60s). Anyway, I was hit by a wave of nostalgia last year on a skiing holiday in the French Alps when we saw morel fondue on the menu and simply had to try it. We were not disappointed . . .

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25g Dried morels (better still, 100g fresh)
150ml Dry white wine
I tbspn Cornflour
500g Grated cheese (ideally a 50/50 mix of Gruyere and Emmental)
‘Dunking’ material: bread (cubed), tomatoes, button mushrooms, cucumber, celery etc.

Soak the mushrooms in the wine for at least a couple of hours, then chop coarsely, and return to the liquid. Heat the wine and mushrooms slowly on the stove and meanwhile mix the grated cheese with the cornflour. When the wine begins to bubble, slowly stir in handfuls of the cheese/flour mix. When this has emulsified, transfer to the fondue set that has lain unused and dust-covered in a cupboard for the past 30 years. Eat by dipping in cubes of bread, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms or anything else that you think goes with gooey cheese.

Tips:

1) The mix thickens as the meal progresses – so don’t worry if it seems a little watery at the start.
2) Impose severe forfeits for careless bread-loss. Depending on company, nudity, slammers or karaoke help keep the cheese free of detritus.
3) For background reading, try Asterix in Switzerland, while Abba is an appropriate backing track (the nationality may not be Alpine, but it conjours up visions of pine cladding and polo neck jumpers).

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Wild Food

Our ancestors relied on wild food from the fields and woods, great great grandfathers were transported for helping themselves, while Mabey, Mears and Fearnley-Whittingstall have introduced a new generation to its charms. So what free delicacies are available now?

Alexanders
Birch Sap Wine
Chanterelles
Chestnut
Cockles
Elderberries
Hairy Bittercress
Hogweed
Hops (March 2010)
Morel
Pennywort
Red-legged partridge
Silver Birch
Sloe
Stinging Nettles
Wild strawberries

Wildlife Profile

Britain is blessed with a rich and varied fauna - what seasonal highlights are visible now?

Badger
Barn Owl
Bats
Brown Hare
Butterflies
Fieldfares
Frog
Great spotted woodpecker
Hedgehogs
Jay
Kingfisher
Mistle Thrush
Mistle Thrush
Nightjar
Partridge
Roe Deer
Spiders
Tawny Owl

Recipes

Just as we Britons have lost any mushroom lore we might once have possessed, so most of us are at a loss when we finally venture into the kitchen with our haul. In reality, however, mushrooms are one of the easiest things to work with. They have such fantastic flavours, the general rule is to not to mask these with complicated recipes. Most should be cooked, particularly the first time, because they can be indigestible, but otherwise, simple is usually best . . .

Chanterelle and Feta Quiche
Chicken-of-the-Woods Satay
Elderflower Cordial
Grilled Cepes
Jew's Ear on Pasta
Morel Fondue
Morel Stroganoff (March 2010)
Parasol Tempura
Pearl Barley and Wild Mushroom Risotto
Shaggy Ink Cap Soup
St Georges Vol-au-Vents
Venison and Blewit Casserole
Wild mushroom soup