Porcini, kale and pasta

This delicious hearty peasant dish is the perfect way to warm up after a damp, cold, late winter walk . . .

image25g Dried porcini
150g dry cured smoked bacon
100g Unsalted butter
100ml dry white wine
100g Parmesan
500g Kale (Savoy cabbage will do just as well)
250g Jew’s ear (optional)
1 Large pinch spicy paprika
Olive oil
500g Good-quality dried pasta


Soak the wild mushrooms in near-boiling water for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, slowly fry the bacon until crisp in half the butter, adding a dash of oil to prevent burning. If using Jew’s ear mushrooms, shred finely and add towards the end of the cooking process. Drain the mushrooms (reserving the stock, of course), chop roughly and add to the bacon along with a large pinch of spicy paprika (I use the fantastic stuff grown by my Turkish friend Ali who I met at last year’s Uzumlu morel festival). After a minute add the wine and mushroom stock, simmer for a few minutes to boil off the alcohol and to allow the flavours to blend. Meanwhile, bring a large pan of salted water to a rolling boil and add the pasta. After five minutes add the shredded kale/cabbage and cook for another 10 minutes. Drain the pasta and kale and add to the bacon and mushrooms. Toss vigorously, adding the rest of the butter and salt and black pepper to taste. Serve with a scattering of shaved Parmesan and a full-bodied wine alongside (a red Rhone would be ideal, but a ‘big’ white would be an acceptable alternative).

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Wild Food

Our ancestors relied on wild food from the fields and woods, great great grandfathers were transported for helping themselves, while Mabey, Mears and Fearnley-Whittingstall have introduced a new generation to its charms. So what free delicacies are available now?

Alexanders
Birch Sap Wine
Chanterelles
Chestnut
Cockles
Crab Apple
Elderberries
Hairy Bittercress
Hogweed
Hops (March 2010)
Morel
Parasol
Pennywort
Ramsoms (May 2010)
Red-legged partridge
Seaweed (August 2010)
Signal Crayfish
Silver Birch
Sloe
St Georges (April 2010)
Stinging Nettles
Wild strawberries

Wildlife Profile

Britain is blessed with a rich and varied fauna - what seasonal highlights are visible now?

Badger
Barn Owl
Bats
Brown Hare
Butterflies
Collared dove
Fieldfares
Frog
Garden Warbler
Great spotted woodpecker
Hare
Hedgehogs
Jay
Kingfisher
Midges (August 2010)
Mistle Thrush
Mistle Thrush
Moths (July 2010)
Nightjar
Nuthatch (June 2010)
Partridge
Red Kite
Redstart
Roe Deer
Spiders
Tawny Owl
The Goshawk
Woodpigeon

Recipes

Just as we Britons have lost any mushroom lore we might once have possessed, so most of us are at a loss when we finally venture into the kitchen with our haul. In reality, however, mushrooms are one of the easiest things to work with. They have such fantastic flavours, the general rule is to not to mask these with complicated recipes. Most should be cooked, particularly the first time, because they can be indigestible, but otherwise, simple is usually best . . .

Baked eggs and rocket with chilli and yoghurt (June 2010)
Blewit Pate
Chanterelle and Feta Quiche
Chanterelles a la forestiere
Chicken and Mushroom Pie
Chicken-of-the-Woods Satay
Elderflower Cordial
Grilled Cepes
Jew's Ear on Pasta
Morel Fondue
Morel Stroganoff (March 2010)
Mushroom Parcels
Parasol Tempura
Pearl Barley and Wild Mushroom Risotto
Porcini, kale and pasta
Saffron Milk Caps with Beans
Shaggy Ink Cap Soup
Smoked Chilli Oil
Spiced Stuffed Mushrooms
Spring Terrine
St Georges Vol-au-Vents
Thai Mushroom Soup
Venison and Blewit Casserole
Wild Mushroom and Nut Pate
Wild mushroom soup