

This delicious hearty peasant dish is the perfect way to warm up after a damp, cold, late winter walk . . .
25g Dried porcini
150g dry cured smoked bacon
100g Unsalted butter
100ml dry white wine
100g Parmesan
500g Kale (Savoy cabbage will do just as well)
250g Jew’s ear (optional)
1 Large pinch spicy paprika
Olive oil
500g Good-quality dried pasta
Soak the wild mushrooms in near-boiling water for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, slowly fry the bacon until crisp in half the butter, adding a dash of oil to prevent burning. If using Jew’s ear mushrooms, shred finely and add towards the end of the cooking process. Drain the mushrooms (reserving the stock, of course), chop roughly and add to the bacon along with a large pinch of spicy paprika (I use the fantastic stuff grown by my Turkish friend Ali who I met at last year’s Uzumlu morel festival). After a minute add the wine and mushroom stock, simmer for a few minutes to boil off the alcohol and to allow the flavours to blend. Meanwhile, bring a large pan of salted water to a rolling boil and add the pasta. After five minutes add the shredded kale/cabbage and cook for another 10 minutes. Drain the pasta and kale and add to the bacon and mushrooms. Toss vigorously, adding the rest of the butter and salt and black pepper to taste. Serve with a scattering of shaved Parmesan and a full-bodied wine alongside (a red Rhone would be ideal, but a ‘big’ white would be an acceptable alternative).
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Read the latest mushroom-hunting news – what is (and isn’t) up, what it looks like and where to find it . . . plus, of course, cooking and preserving tips. Better still, get regular updates in the comfort of your own home by taking up our free subscription - simply drop us a line via the 'Content' page or e-mail danielr.butler@btopenworld.com . . .
Mushoom Newsletter (11 August 2010)Our ancestors relied on wild food from the fields and woods, great great grandfathers were transported for helping themselves, while Mabey, Mears and Fearnley-Whittingstall have introduced a new generation to its charms. So what free delicacies are available now?
AlexandersBritain is blessed with a rich and varied fauna - what seasonal highlights are visible now?
BadgerJust as we Britons have lost any mushroom lore we might once have possessed, so most of us are at a loss when we finally venture into the kitchen with our haul. In reality, however, mushrooms are one of the easiest things to work with. They have such fantastic flavours, the general rule is to not to mask these with complicated recipes. Most should be cooked, particularly the first time, because they can be indigestible, but otherwise, simple is usually best . . .
Baked eggs and rocket with chilli and yoghurt (June 2010)Newsletter(12May2012)
I’ve still yet to find any St George’s, but the same cannot be said for others, however, and I have been inundated with reports of surprising and mouth-watering finds elsewhere . . .
Hare
Brown hares used to be thought of as natives, but they were probably brought here two millennia ago . . .
Crab Apple
The self-seeded descendents of cultivated apples abound in hedgerows. Often mistakenly called 'crab apples', these sports are generally too tart to eat, but they make a brilliant base for a savoury jelly . . .
Spring Terrine
This unusual recipe was sent in by regular newsletter reader Jon Bemrose who is an avid forager and professional chef (and I am endebted to another keen forager, Michael Webber, for the photo of St George's with an unseasonal wood blewit) . . ..
German mushroom knife
These specially imported knives have a hawk's bill stainless steel blade, lanyard hook and measuring scale. The blade's serrated back and inbuilt natural bristle brush allow collectors to clean their finds in the field.