I am deeply indebted to a newsletter reader, Jon Bemrose, for this delicious recipe which harnesses the rich flavours of wood or field blewits (and a few of these hardy mushrooms can be found even in late winter . . . .
500g mushrooms finely chopped
1 small onion (4 shallots) finely chopped
1 clove garlic finely chopped
1 chilli finely chopped
a little fresh thyme
juice of half a lemon
Fry all together until most of the water has gone. In other words, it should have just stopped bubbling, but not quite started to fry. Allow it to cool, then mix two parts mushroom mix with one part ricotta or mascapone. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve on toast or, alternatively, stuff between the skin and breast of a chicken before roasting (it’s just as good in a jacket spud for you veggies).