Samphire is a strange-looking primitive plant which thrives in the brackish water and mud of a saltmarsh . . .
Despite this it is one of the very few wild plants to be widely available in Britain. Upmarket fishmongers sell it at inflated prices while expensive restaurants use it to decorate choice dishes, but it is both free and common along our coasts.
Samphire grows around the year and is worth seeking out because it has a delicate salty flavour slightly reminiscent of asparagus. It is rich in trace elements and vitamins and the tender young stalks are best picked during the late spring and summer months. This is largely because collection usually involves ploughing through thick mud: much more agreeable in on a warm afternoon than a chilly autumn dawn. It will keep in the fridge for three or four days (store it dry rather than in water), but is best eaten fresh.
Make the most of its flavour by steaming it quickly to accompany fish or white meat. Alternatively it can be eaten on its own dressed simply with butter or a light vinaigrette. The stalks contain thin fibres as they age and can be tough. In this case ignore table etiquette, tip your head back and gently ease the flesh off against your teeth.
