Mediaeval chefs used the semi-fermented juice of feral apples or wildings (often mistakenly called crab apples) instead of lemon juice. It is subtly different, but in some recipes is actually superior. Indeed, to this day it is used in many top French restaurants to impart a subtle twist on classic dishes. And it couldn’t be simpler to make. Make a pile of wildings and leave to sweat and soften for a few days. Then remove the stalks and throw away any rotten apples, before mashing and pressing the fruit to express the juice. Pour into clean jars or bottles, but don’t tighten the lids or stoppers. Store in a cool, dark, place – a garage is ideal – for three to four weeks. This makes an extremely sharp, lightly alcoholic, cross between cider and apple juice.